The Amalfi Coast is one of those places that gets photographed so often it can feel familiar before you’ve ever set foot on it – and then it still surprises you. Pastel towns stacked into cliffs, lemon groves clinging to terraces, a coastal road that never stops turning. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site for good reason, and it rewards a bit of planning more than most Italian destinations, simply because of how the geography works against straight lines and quick transfers.
This guide covers the region as a whole – the towns, how to get there and around, and what’s worth doing. We’ll have dedicated guides on choosing a base town and on the best time to visit soon; for now, here’s everything you need to plan a first trip.
Where Is the Amalfi Coast, and Which Towns Should You Know?
The Amalfi Coast (Costiera Amalfitana) runs along the southern side of the Sorrentine Peninsula in Italy’s Campania region, roughly 50 km of coastline between Vietri sul Mare in the east and Positano in the west. It’s about an hour from Naples and the same from Sorrento, depending on traffic.
- Positano – the postcard town: steep, colorful, expensive, and the most photographed spot on the coast.
- Amalfi – the historic capital and most practical base, with the best transport connections.
- Ravello – perched in the hills above the coast, quieter and more refined, known for its villas and gardens.
- Praiano – smaller and calmer, between Positano and Amalfi, known for sunset views.
- Atrani – Italy’s smallest municipality, a 10-minute walk from Amalfi and noticeably less touristy.
- Minori & Maiori – on the eastern side, with the coast’s longest beach and generally lower prices.
- Vietri sul Mare, Cetara, Conca dei Marini, Furore – smaller villages worth a stop if you’re exploring beyond the main three.
How to Get to the Amalfi Coast
There’s no airport or train station directly on the coast, so getting there always involves a transfer.
- From Naples Airport: take a bus or train into Naples, then either the regional train to Salerno (about 30-40 minutes) and a seasonal ferry onward, or the Circumvesuviana train to Sorrento (around 70 minutes) and a SITA bus along the coast.
- From Rome: a high-speed train to Naples (around 70 minutes) connects to either route above.
- By private transfer: many hotels arrange a car transfer directly from Naples Airport, typically 75-90 minutes depending on the destination and traffic.
How to Get Around Once You’re There
This is the part that catches first-time visitors off guard: the coast is small in distance but slow in travel time, and a rental car is usually the wrong call.
- Ferries (operated mainly by Travelmar) connect Salerno, Amalfi, Positano, Minori, and Maiori, and are genuinely the most pleasant way to move between towns. They run seasonally, roughly April through October, weather permitting.
- SITA buses run the length of the SS163 and up to Ravello. They’re cheap and frequent but get packed in July and August – arrive at the stop early.
- Driving is possible but genuinely hard going: the SS163 is narrow, has dozens of hairpin turns, and parking in town centers is scarce and expensive. On top of that, from spring through autumn the coast runs an alternating license-plate traffic scheme – on even calendar dates, only odd-ending plates may drive the SS163 between roughly 10 a.m. and 6 p.m., and vice versa on odd dates. Motorcycles and scooters are exempt, and hotel guests get an exception for arrival and departure only – not for driving around during your stay. If you’re set on a car, double check the current dates for your travel period before you go.
Top Things to Do on the Amalfi Coast
- Hike the Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei) – a clifftop trail above Positano with some of the best views on the entire coast, usually walked from Bomerano to Nocelle.
- Visit the Emerald Grotto (Grotta dello Smeraldo) near Conca dei Marini – a sea cave with a short rowboat tour inside. It closes whenever the sea is too rough for safe access, so it’s worth checking ahead rather than planning around it too tightly.
- See Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone in Ravello – two clifftop estates with gardens and viewpoints that are genuinely some of the most photographed spots in Italy, including Villa Cimbrone’s “Terrace of Infinity.”
- Walk through Amalfi’s historic center and the Duomo di Sant’Andrea, the striped Arab-Norman cathedral that anchors the town’s main piazza.
- Take a boat trip to the Li Galli islets or over to Capri – both are easy day trips by sea from Positano or Amalfi.
- Catch the Ravello Festival if you’re visiting in summer – an outdoor classical music series staged at Villa Rufolo from roughly June through September.
Best Time to Visit, Briefly
Late April through June and September into October tend to offer the best balance: warm weather, running ferries, and noticeably fewer crowds than peak summer. July and August are the busiest and hottest months, and also when the SS163’s traffic restrictions are most aggressive. We’ll cover this month-by-month in a dedicated guide soon – for now, if your dates are flexible, shoulder season is the easier trip.
Practical Tips for 2026
- Book accommodation early. Rooms in Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello fill up six months or more ahead of summer dates.
- Pack for stairs. Positano in particular is built almost entirely on staircases – it’s genuinely difficult terrain for limited mobility or with a stroller.
- Most beaches are pebble, not sand, and a lot of beach space is taken up by paid stabilimenti (beach clubs) rather than free public access.
- Cash helps. Some smaller restaurants, the Emerald Grotto, and certain ferry kiosks are still cash-preferred or cash-only.
Conclusion
The Amalfi Coast rewards travelers who plan around its geography rather than fighting it – base yourself in one town, lean on ferries and buses instead of a rental car, and build in time to do nothing more than sit on a terrace with a view. If you’re routing through Naples on the way in, our complete travel guide to Naples covers the gateway city, and our Ultimate Italy Travel Guide is a good starting point if this is part of a longer Italian trip.
FAQs
Do I need a car to visit the Amalfi Coast?
No – and for most visitors, a car makes things harder rather than easier. Ferries and SITA buses cover the coast well, and driving means dealing with the SS163’s traffic, scarce parking, and the alternating license-plate restriction.
What’s the best town to base yourself in?
It depends on your priorities: Positano is the most scenic and most expensive, Amalfi is the most practical with the best transport links, and Ravello is the quietest, set up in the hills above the coast.
Is Capri part of the Amalfi Coast?
No – Capri is a separate island in the Bay of Naples, but it’s a very common and easy day trip by boat from Positano or Amalfi.
When do the Amalfi Coast ferries run?
Roughly from April through October, weather permitting. Outside that window, SITA buses are the main way to get between towns.
What is the alternating license plate rule on the SS163?
It’s a traffic measure that restricts driving by license plate ending: on even calendar dates only odd-ending plates may drive, and vice versa, typically between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. during peak periods from spring through autumn. Motorcycles, scooters, and hotel guests on arrival/departure days are exempt.
