Idaho has more designated wilderness than any state outside Alaska and almost no reputation to match it. The Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness alone covers over 9,500 square kilometres with no roads through it. Hells Canyon on the Oregon border is deeper than the Grand Canyon. The Sawtooth range holds more than 400 alpine lakes.
The reason so few people know this is that Idaho has no marquee national park, so it never enters the standard western itinerary. That is precisely the argument for going.
The quick answer
How long: six days for the Sawtooths, Sun Valley and Craters of the Moon.
Best months: July to September. The mountain season is short and snow lingers into June at altitude.
No Idaho site is on the 2026 international surcharge list. Craters of the Moon charges a standard $20 per vehicle.
Hells Canyon is the deepest river gorge in North America at around 2,400 metres, and it is most easily seen by jet boat from Lewiston or from the Oregon rim.
Idaho spans two time zones, with the north on Pacific time and most of the south on Mountain. The line runs roughly across the middle.
Sun Valley was the first destination ski resort in the country, opened in 1936, and it built the world’s first chairlift.
Daily budget: roughly $150 to $220 per person mid-range, more in Sun Valley.
The Sawtooths and central Idaho
The Sawtooth Range is the state’s signature landscape: granite peaks above alpine lakes, with over 400 lakes and 40 peaks above 3,000 metres. Stanley, population under a hundred, is the base and one of the coldest towns in the lower 48.
Redfish Lake is the accessible centrepiece, with a boat shuttle across to trailheads and swimming in August when the water is briefly tolerable.
Sun Valley and Ketchum, an hour south, form the resort area. Bald Mountain has some of the best consistent vertical skiing in the country and the town has an outsized restaurant scene. Ernest Hemingway lived and is buried in Ketchum.
The Salmon River,</strong called the River of No Return, offers multi-day white water trips through the Frank Church Wilderness, permitted by lottery for private groups and available commercially with outfitters.
Sawtooth Scenic Byway between Ketchum and Stanley crosses Galena Summit at 2,650 metres, with the view down the Sawtooth Valley from the top.
The rest of the state
Craters of the Moon National Monument, in the south east, is a lava field of cinder cones, spatter cones and lava tubes covering 1,900 square kilometres. Apollo astronauts trained here in 1969 to learn volcanic geology before going to the moon. Caving requires a free permit and a check for white-nose syndrome contamination.
Boise is the capital and a genuinely pleasant small city, with a greenbelt along the river, the Basque Block reflecting one of the largest Basque communities outside Spain, and mountains 20 minutes away.
Coeur d’Alene, in the northern panhandle, has a large clear lake, a resort town and a very different feel from the south, closer to Spokane in Washington than to Boise in both distance and character.
Hells Canyon, on the Oregon border, is around 2,400 metres deep, making it the deepest river gorge in North America. Jet boat trips run from Lewiston, and the Oregon side has the road access to the rim.
Shoshone Falls, near Twin Falls, is higher than Niagara and spectacular in spring when the irrigation draw is lowest. By late summer it can be reduced to a trickle, so check the flow before driving out.
Silver Mountain and Schweitzer in the north are the other ski areas, and Schweitzer has views over Lake Pend Oreille.
When to go
July to September is the season. Mountain passes are clear, alpine lakes are reachable, and river levels are good for rafting through July.
June has snow on the high trails and the best whitewater from snowmelt, which suits rafters and frustrates hikers.
Late September brings aspen and larch colour and the first cold nights, with very few people anywhere.
December to March is ski season at Sun Valley, Schweitzer and Silver Mountain, with dry cold snow and short queues by western standards.
April, May and November are the awkward months, with passes closed or muddy and resorts between seasons.
What it costs
Accommodation: $130 to $200 a night in Boise and Coeur d’Alene, $180 to $320 in Sun Valley and Ketchum in season, and $120 to $180 in Stanley, where options are limited and book out.
Park entry: $20 per vehicle at Craters of the Moon, no surcharge. Sawtooth National Recreation Area charges for some trailhead parking.
Rafting: a multi-day guided Salmon River trip runs roughly $1,500 to $2,500 per person for four to six days including everything. Day trips are $100 to $180.
Jet boat trips into Hells Canyon run $150 to $250 for a full day from Lewiston.
Eating: $13 to $20 for a casual meal, $32 to $60 per person for dinner. Ketchum runs higher.
Car hire: $50 to $80 a day out of Boise, which is the main airport, and essential.
A route that works
Six days. Fly into Boise, one night there, two in Stanley for the Sawtooths, two in Ketchum, one at Craters of the Moon on the way back.
Northern version. Fly into Spokane in Washington, three nights at Coeur d’Alene and two at Sandpoint, which is a completely separate trip from the south.
River version. A four to six day guided trip on the Middle Fork of the Salmon, which is one of the best wilderness river journeys in the country and needs booking a year ahead.
Practical notes
Distances are long and services sparse. Boise to Stanley is three hours, and there is very little between the towns. Fill the tank when you can.
Two time zones catch people out on internal drives and flight connections. The panhandle is on Pacific time, most of the south on Mountain.
Mountain passes including Galena Summit can hold snow into June and close in autumn storms. Check conditions.
Wildfire smoke from July to September is a regular feature and can affect visibility and air quality for days.
Shoshone Falls flow depends on irrigation demand upstream and is dramatically reduced by late summer. Spring is when it is worth the detour.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best time to visit Idaho?
July to September, when mountain passes are clear and the alpine lakes are reachable. June has better whitewater from snowmelt but snow still on high trails, and late September is quiet with autumn colour. Winter is a serious and underrated ski season.
Does Idaho have a national park?
No, which is why so few visitors come, and it is the best argument for going. Craters of the Moon is a national monument, the Sawtooths are a national recreation area, and the state holds more designated wilderness than anywhere outside Alaska. No 2026 international surcharge applies anywhere here.
Is Hells Canyon deeper than the Grand Canyon?
Yes, at around 2,400 metres it is the deepest river gorge in North America. It is also far harder to see, since there is no rim road on the Idaho side. Jet boat trips from Lewiston or the Oregon rim viewpoints are the practical options.
What is Craters of the Moon?
A 1,900 square kilometre lava field of cinder cones and lava tubes in southern Idaho, so alien that Apollo astronauts trained there in 1969 to learn volcanic geology before flying to the moon. Entry is $20 per vehicle and caving needs a free permit.
How do you visit the Sawtooth Mountains?
Base in Stanley, a village of under a hundred people at the northern end, or in Ketchum an hour south if you want restaurants and hotels. Redfish Lake is the accessible centrepiece with a boat shuttle to trailheads, and the drive over Galena Summit between the two is the best road in the state.
Is Sun Valley worth visiting in summer?
Yes. The ski infrastructure runs for mountain biking and sightseeing, the town has the best restaurants in Idaho, and it is an hour from the Sawtooths. It is also the most expensive place to stay in the state.
Can you raft the Salmon River?
Yes, and the Middle Fork is one of the best multi-day wilderness river trips in the country. Private permits are allocated by lottery, and commercial outfitters run four to six day trips at roughly $1,500 to $2,500 per person, booked close to a year ahead.
Why does Idaho have two time zones?
The northern panhandle is on Pacific time and most of the south on Mountain time, with the line running roughly across the middle of the state. It catches people out on drives between Coeur d’Alene and Boise and on flight connections.
How much does an Idaho trip cost?
Roughly $150 to $220 per person per day mid-range, which is cheap for the amount of landscape. Sun Valley is the exception at $180 to $320 a night, and a guided multi-day river trip is a separate budget line entirely.
Explore Idaho in detail
The mountains. The Sawtooths hold 42 peaks over 3,000 metres with free wilderness permits, and Sun Valley was America’s first destination ski resort and home of the first chairlift.
The rivers and canyons. Our rafting guide covers the Middle Fork and its permit lottery, Hells Canyon is deeper than the Grand Canyon, and Shoshone Falls is taller than Niagara when the water is running.
The strange and the northern. Craters of the Moon is where Apollo astronauts trained, and Coeur d’Alene anchors a panhandle of lakes and rail trails.
City and planning. Boise has one of the largest Basque communities outside Europe, our food guide covers finger steaks and huckleberries, the seasonal guide covers the narrow windows, and the budget guide covers costs.
